Long journey to Pidurangala Rock Sigiriya

Everyone who goes to Sigiriya climbs the Sigiriya Rock.  We decided to be more adventurous and climb the Pidurangala Rock as well.  

We had read that Pidurangala is far less-visited than Sigiriya.  And so it was.  Finding Sigiriya was easy - one can simply follow the stream of tourists.  Getting to Pidurangala was more of a challenge.  

From the top of Sigiriya, you can look across to Pidurangala.  We knew it wasn't far, and from checking at the hotel, we knew that we could get there by following the main road to Habarana.  So we set off walking.  At the beginning, we could see the rock, rising above the jungle, but we soon lost sight of it as we got closer and the trees around it got taller.

We walked a long way, looking for a sign to Pidurangala.  We came to a small, overgrown side road.  There was no obvious sign that it led to a tourist destination.  So we kept walking.

We walked further and, after about 20 minutes, caught up with some tourists who were plainly lost.  They were looking for Sigiriya.  They asked us for directions, and full of self-importance, we explained that they had taken completely the wrong road, and sent them back in the direction of Sigiriya Village.  Knowing that we were on the right road to Pidurangala, we ploughed on.

We kept walking.  We walked quite a long way, past another small country road - more of a ghostly track - that led vaguely in the right direction.  But we couldn't see Pidurangala amongst the jungle, so we decided to walk on and find a local to ask directions.

We were pointed in the direction of the second small road (although, later, we would learn that the first road would have been more direct - we went exploring without a map, but you can find one here).

Anyway, off we went...

On the way, we came to an old, and apparently deserted monastry, unique for showing Buddha under the shadow of a cobra.  There were no signs, and we weren't sure of its name.  It was beautiful, serene and quiet - like nobody had visited this place for years.

It came with a stupa, but the grounds were overgrown and appeared neglected.

Mrs Herbivore was a little scared of ghosts at this place, so we kept walking down the road, in search of Pidurangala.

It had taken us a good hour and a half to walk from our hotel in Sigiriya, but finally, we found the entrance to Pidurangala.  It was a very different experience from Sigiriya Rock.  At Sigiriya, we had to queue for tickets, and then queue for a ticket check.  In contrast, we were the only people at Pidurangala - and we actually had to look for someone to find us a ticket.  Each ticket cost LKR 500 for admission to the cave temple, which also permitted us to climb the rock itself.

At the bottom of the hill, a short walk from the ticket office, is the cave temple.  A helpful attendant kindly showed us through to see the ancient sculptures, and a reclining Buddha.  This temple was clearly well-kept and in regular use.

After visiting the rock temple, we set off to the top of the Rock.  The attendant asked us if we wanted a guide.  We politely declined, and he warned us to be careful of snakes.

The climb to the top was not like Sigiriya.  Whereas Sigiriya had well-worn tourist paths, clearly maintained at some expense by the auhorities, Pidurangala was rather more wild.  It really was like being in the jungle, and in places, there were no paths at all.

We were relieved that we didn't see any snakes, but after a short, steep climb, we reached a much older, and less maintained Buddha.  On the way, we passed clefts in the rocks where the monks had lived ancient times.  The climb to the Buddha probably took us 20 minutes or so, and was relatively easy for anyone from a hilly city.

The Buddha marks the end of the maintained path - but from here you can keep climbing, through and over rocks to the top.  A top tip is to follow the arrows painted on the rocks to get to the top, even if they appear to go the wrong way.

The climb from the Buddha is more challenging.  You really do have to scramble, stretch and climb a bit to get to the top.  We managed in a pair of sandals and flip-flops respectively, but proper shoes would probably have helped.

From the top of Pidurangala, we could look out towards Sigiriua Rock, where we had been the day before. 

The view of Sigiriya was beautiful and amazing.  We could make out the hordes of tourists on the other rock.

But we enjoyed the relative solitude of Pidurangala.  In the hour or so we spent there, we saw only a handful of people.  It was almost like being alone in the world.

From the top, we ventured down.  Getting down seemed to be much easier and quicker than the climb up.  We were tired and hungry, and fortunate to find a tuktuk at the bottom.

The tuktuk took us back to the village in Sigiriya for lunch.  The tuktuk route was rather more direct than our walking route to get there; and as we neared Sigiriya Rock, we finally found a sign pointing to Pidurangala!

If we had taken the right road, past Sigiriya Rock, our journey would have been much more direct, and much quicker.  But perhaps not as much fun.

Wijasiri Family Restaurant Sigiriya

During our four days in Sigiriya, we ate in several of the small restaurants in the village.  

Our favourite was the Wijiasiri Family Restaurant, owned and operated by two sisters, and their various husbands, sons, daughters and brothers.  We met at least three generations of the family, and everyone was really friendly, always smiling, and keen to help.   

The restaurant itself was not flash.  It was really just a small shack with a dirt floor, and an awning to keep off the sun.  We were there in the dry season, and it all worked well, but we wondered if it would be as pleasant in the wet.

Building aside, the food at Wijiasiri was fresh and tasty.  The Sri Lankans have a thing for cutting up their food.  We liked the vegetarian kottu mee (literally, cut noodles)...

...and the kottu roti (literally, cut roti).

Wijiasiri offered a range of drinks.  We ate here a couple of times, having a selection of freshly squeezed juices and fresh green coconuts.

Each meal set us back approximately LKR 1,200.  This was about the going rate for a meal in Sigiriya, but we were clearly paying tourist prices: between four to five times what we paid for local meals in Colombo and Dambulla.

But, we had to eat, and all the restaurants in Sigiriya seemed to be much the same in terms of price - and it was only around USD 4 per person per meal.

We liked Wijiasiri Family Restaurant.  We ate here twice, and we would go back if we visited Sigiriya again.

Climbing "Sigiriya Rock"

Sigiriya Rock is a major tourist attraction, and attracts significant crowds.  We were variously told that we should go either early or late in the afternoon, but we chose early, and set off shortly after breakfast, about 7.30.

We walked from the hotel, down rural roads.  It took us 20 minutes or so from Hotel Sigiriya,  past the original moat.  The signs warned that it is crocodile-infested, although we didn't see any. 

Despite the early hour, there were lots of tourists about.  Buying tickets was a straightforward exercise - but again was pricey, at LKR 3960 each (around 35 U$)

Sigiriya today is a ruin but it was once a large and significant city, constructed in the fifth century AD by King Kasyapa.  It was build atop the rock - an inaccessible 180 metre high column of basalt - and sprawled for many acres around the rock. 

Construction would be an impressive feat now, and must have been a mammoth and astonishing task in the fifth century.  We imagine that the city in its heyday would have been amazing.

It is a long climb to the top of the Rock.

Sigiriya is not the place to go if you are less mobile or scared of heights.  The steps are narrow and step.  

In places, the stone steps have disappeared over the centuries and have been replaced with more recent staircases almost suspended in thin air, but attached to the Rock (we silently prayed to Hephaestus and hoped they were properly engineered!).

On the way up, you pass some ancient frescoes, and the Mirror Wall, so called because it has been polished smooth over the centuries.

Finally, you reach the remains of a lion, guarding the steps which lead to the top of the fortress.  

Here, there are special cages to protect tourists in the event of a hornet attack (thankfully we didn't see any hornets) and we again climbed.  

As in many other places around the climb, it's best not to look down here!  Finally, we reached the top.

It's really windy around the top. Be carefuly when you are taking pictures around the edge. Because they don't have any wall to protect you. Some of the stone around is so old and fragile. So keep yourself in the middle of area.

We saw some of crazy tourist that take dangerously pose picture.

We could only imagine what the palace must have been like.  Now, it is a wild, windswept place, with amazing views of the countryside. 

We looked out towards the slightly lower Pidurangala Rock (our mission for the following day)

and saw a snake slithering along one of the ancient walls.

The Rock operates a one-way system for tourist traffic.  You go up one way, and down another.  Given the steepness and narrowness of the access, this is a good thing.  

Getting down from the top of the Rock to the lion's paws was a little scary, but we made it, and from there the descent was relatively easy.  We saw big queues going up, so were glad we went early.

On the way back we saw some of stray dog around with bad condition live inside the rock area. We are sad because we not bring any food to feed them. They look hungry and skinny. 

Sigiriya Rock is a major drawcard and is the main reason people go to Sigiriya.  Definitely worth a visit - and we're glad we made the effort.

We rate this place 9/10.